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Frommer's Guide
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FEATURES AND EVENTS
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Sandy, Salty New England: Coastal Highlights
by Kristen Martin
Freelance Writer
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Good Seafood Eats in New England
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Abbott's Lobster in the Rough
117 Pearl Street, Noank, Connecticut
860-536-7719
Flo's Clam Shack
4 Wave Avenue, Newport, Rhode Island
401-847-8141
Beal's Lobster Pier
Southwest Harbor, Maine
207-244-7178
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Mystic, Connecticut
America's seafaring past comes to life in the picturesque town of Mystic, nestled on both sides of the Mystic River in the southeastern corner of Connecticut. Mystic's claim to fame as a major shipbuilding center during the 19th century is faithfully recreated at Mystic Seaport, a living history museum comprised of 60 period buildings and hundreds of restored vessels on 17 acres of waterfront property. Visitors can view the retired ships, schooners, and sloops that once plied New England's waters and can simulate maritime community life by wandering through the one-room schoolhouse, tavern, bank, chapel, and lighthouse. Frequent demonstrations of shipbuilding crafts take place throughout the village. Another area attraction worth a look is the Mystic Aquarium, which features dolphin and orca shows, underwater observation tanks, and coastal habitat displays. Marine mammals in residence include penguins, fur seals, sea lions, and beluga whales.
Feast your eyes on the tall ships and exotic sea creatures, but leave some time for a side trip to Abbott's Lobster in the Rough, a down-home seafood joint located in the tiny town of Noank. The menu includes steamed lobster, boiled shrimp in the shell, baskets of clams and mussels, and creamy clam chowder. Add cole slaw, potato chips, corn on the cob, and plenty of butter and join the festive crowds at the picnic tables on the lawn. Do-it-yourselfers can tackle the lobster with a nutcracker while the lazy can indulge in the specialty of the house: delicate chunks of lobster meat drizzled with melted butter and served on a grilled bun.
Newport, Rhode Island
Don't let Rhode Island's size fool you. The "Ocean State" may be the smallest in the union, but its 400 miles of coastline make it more than just a drive-by destination. Newport, a small city perched on the edge of Aquidneck Island in Narragansett Bay, draws summer visitors from around the globe. Newport was once a major commercial port that rivaled Boston and New York, and later gained prominence as a sailing center and warm-weather playground for wealthy 19th-century business barons who built decadent mansions overlooking the sea. Tourists with a voyeuristic bent and a taste for conspicuous consumption should visit a few of these "summer cottages," most of which are now in the hands of preservation agencies and are open to the public. The Breakers, the most magnificent of the Newport mansions, boasts 70 rooms, a great hall swathed in African and Italian marble, and a separate children's cottage. Suits of armor from 32 countries grace the halls of Belcourt Castle; Beechwood hosts a theater company whose cast members portray various household guests, friends, and servants; and lavish Marble House rivals the opulent Palace of Versailles. The principal mansions line Bellevue Avenue, which is accessible by car and bicycle. Visitors eager to stretch their legs can stroll the length of Cliff Walk, a short footpath with views of the ocean on one side and the mansions on the other.
Newport's jam-packed calendar of outdoor music festivals during the summer months attracts big-name talent and legions of classical, jazz, and folk music fans. The Newport Music Festival in mid-July delights audiences with a two-week stint of chamber music concerts staged at various mansions. The toe-tapping Rhythm and Blues Festival keeps things hopping in late July, and early August brings the Newport Folk Festival to the lawns of Fort Adams State Park. Other festivals include the JVC Jazz Festival in mid-August and an Irish Music Festival at the end of September.
Cape Cod, Massachusetts
In 1620, the Mayflower docked briefly in Provincetown on the northernmost tip of Cape Cod, before setting sail again for Plymouth on the Massachusetts mainland. Other settlers followed and soon the 65-mile, crooked-arm peninsula was home to fishing villages, whaling ports, farms, and cranberry bogs. The completion of the Cape Cod Canal in 1914 eased travel from the major eastern cities and "The Cape" became enormously popular as a vacation destination.
Beach-loving visitors can take to the waves on the three bodies of water that surround the area: Nantucket Sound, the Atlantic Ocean, and Cape Cod Bay. Just about every town maintains a municipal beach and numerous state parks and recreation areas also offer water access. For a pristine beach experience, head to Cape Cod National Seashore, which encompasses more than 40 miles of shoreline from Chatham to Provincetown. Nature enthusiasts will want to stop at Salt Pond Visitor Center in Eastham for exhibits, trail maps, and ranger-led walks.
Whale-watching expeditions are another popular Cape activity. The Stellwagen Bank, which runs between Gloucester, Massachusetts and Provincetown, is a rich feeding ground for finback, humpback, and minke whales. Dress warmly, stock up on motion-sickness medication, and hustle down to Provincetown's MacMillan Wharf, where a handful of tour companies run daily trips from April through October.
Mount Desert Island, Maine
Cross the Trenton bridge linking Maine's largest coastal island to the mainland, roll down the windows, and swallow a cool, deep breath of fragrant pine trees and salty sea air. Mount Desert Island, home to Acadia National Park and Bar Harbor, is a haul and a half, but worth every mile. Spectacular coastal scenery and a wealth of outdoor activities are the major attractions. A network of more than 100 miles of mountain, lakeshore, and seaside trails provide walkers and hikers of all abilities with countless trekking options. Ideal mountain-biking terrain can be found on the Park's 57 miles of wide, woodsy carriage paths, open only to pedestrians, cyclists, and equestrians. Don't miss a jaunt on the 20-mile Park Loop Road. Highlights along this route include Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Otter Cliffs, Cadillac Mountain, and Jordan Pond. Satisfy your sweet tooth at Bar Harbor's fudge factories, candy stores, and ice cream parlors; picnic at Pretty Marsh, Wonderland, or Seawall; or take a refreshing dip in Echo Lake after climbing the rigorous Beech Cliff Trail. After a few days in Acadia, you'll see why Maine is called "Vacationland."•
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Inside Scoop |
A Note About the Route
Highway 1 is not the fastest way to get through New England, but it hugs much of the coast through several states, making it a great scenic drive. You can follow it, in fact, from Mystic, CT almost all the way to Bar Harbor, ME (allow plenty of time, though, getting through the dense cities of Providence, RI and Boston, MA).
If you'll be stopping in Newport, get off Highway 1 at Route 138 East. This will take you across the Newport Bridge to the town of Newport.
To get to Cape Cod from Highway 1, take Interstate 195 east at Providence, RI. 195 will take you to 495, which crosses the Bourne Bridge to Cape Cod. Route 6 is the main artery on the Cape, but route 28 is more coastal.
To get to Bar Harbor, ME, you can take Highway 1 almost all the way. Just switch to Route 3 South at Ellsworth, ME.
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